Health and Fitness
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Recovery: The 50+ Athletes Secret Weapon
Photo: On the podium with a silver medal in the distance time trial, 2021 Minnesota Senior games I feel the adrenalin surging as the timing judge counts down the seconds: three, two, and one. The starter judge drops her hand. I stand on one pedal, push off, clip in the other foot. Gaining speed, I…
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Gone With The Winds
Featured Photo: The Fortress from Alpine Lakes, Wind River Range, Wyoming Photo: War Bonnet and Warrior, Cirque of the Towers. Driving south from Green River Lakes, our exit trailhead, to Sweetwater Gap trailhead at the southern end on the range, you crest a hill just outside Pinedale, Wyoming. From the top of the hill, stretches…
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Deliberate Training Week Nine: Payoff
Photo: First tracks on Triple Direct, south of Teton Pass, WY, January 8, 2019. Photo credit Max Markusen. This is the ninth and final installment of my series Deliberate Training: Principles of Periodization. Whether you are alpine climbing, ice climbing or backcountry skiing, mental and physical fitness is your key to enjoying the moment and…
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Deliberate Training Weeks Six, Seven and Eight: Recovery–Endurance–Power
Photo: Me and my buddies on a March 1978 backcountry ski tour, Sun Valley, Idaho Fitness programming works. There is a formula for success: goal + reality + determination = a positive outcome. You need to have clear goals. Decide what you really want and commit. Prioritize, you can have most anything, but not everything.…
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Deliberate Training Week Five: Strength Part Two
Photo: Powder goatee, Vail Pass backcountry, 1984. Photo by David Bispham Deliberate Training Week Five: Strength Part Two I am glad Week Five is over. Last Friday at the climbing gym I was dead. Two hard weeks of building strength and now it is time to back off. After a week of recovery, we will…
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Deliberate Training Week Four: Strength Training
Photo: Rigid Designator, Vail, CO. My first big ice lead in 1991. This is Week Four: Strength Building phase of my Nine Week Periodization program. When creating a workout program for myself or my clients, I always keep in mind my goals. With my current program, I have four specific goals. I want to climb…
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Deliberate Training: Week 3, Active Recovery
Photo: Waist deep in Eagle’s Nest, Alta, UT. Photo by Robert McCord, 2008. Achieving big athletic goals requires a capacity and affinity for hard work. Successful athletes train hard. As physical and mental stress increases, the need for rest and recovery accumulates. Continuously hard workouts reach a point of diminishing returns. When you hit that…
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Deliberate Training: Week Two, Being Uncomfortable
Photo: An uncomfortable belay stance at the top of the first pitch, Ames Ice Hose, Telluride, CO Deliberate Training: Building a Base, Week Two There is nothing comfortable about ice climbing. To climb the Ames Ice hose, we left our warm beds at four in the morning, hiked the snow packed approach in the dark,…
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Deliberate Training: Building a Base, Week One Workouts
Photo: The author approaching the base of the Eiger North Face, Grindelwald, Switzerland, by Hansueli Glossner, 2006 “The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step.” – Lao Tzu. Each athlete and every sport is unique, subject to different physical, psychological, and environmental demands. I train to be a competitive cyclist and for outdoor sports: rock &…
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Deliberate Training: Principles of Periodization
Photo: Laura Bergman image of the author ice climbing out of retirement, Cascade Falls, Minnesota, Feb 2018 “Success has to do with deliberate practice. Practice must be focused, determined, and in an environment where there is feedback.” – Malcolm Gladwell The air is Minnesota cold as Hunter Farrell and I make our way down the…