Climbing
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Stretching Muscles: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Photo: The author all stretched out between a rock and a hard place 3000 feet above the floor of Yosemite valley. Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, CA. May 2001. Credit Paul Gardner. The pain between my left shoulder blade and spine comes and goes. The last several weeks it is back with vengeance. I press on…
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Valhalla: Hall of Heroes

I walk the dirt road leading to the Diamond Acre ranch which sits in a verdant meadow in Grand Teton National Park with the Grand Teton towering 7000 vertical feet above. The Sunday afternoon air is warm and scented with late spring flowers. Light shoots forth from the snowfields high on the Grand Teton and…
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Finding Joy in Suffering

Featured Image: the author on the ledge above the Kor Roof, South Face of Washington Column, Yosemite, CA 2001. Credit Paul Gardner. he ledge was two feet wide and sloping; not the most comfortable belay stance. One thousand feet below, the Merced River winds its way through the floor of Yosemite National Park. Across the…
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The Weak Link: Variability in Aging

Photo: The author at age fifty after climbing the Colorado Route on King Fisher Tower, Fisher Towers, Utah 2004. Credit Paul Gardner The woman I am talking to has asked me the same question five times in the last twenty minutes. I expect this. It’s been going on for the last five years. She is…
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Resilience: Learned from Adversity

Photo: Tripp and Steve Markusen on the summit of the Grand Teton, Wyoming, August 8, 2024 As we reached the Upper Saddle at an elevation of 13,200 feet, I turned to my youngest son Tripp (age 24) and said, “Don’t worry about leading, I got this.” It is Thursday August 8, 2024, 9 am. We…
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There and Back Again: Gannett Peak, WY Fifty Year Anniversary Climb

Featured Photo: Paul gardner and me on the summit of Gannett Peak, highest point in Wyoming 50 years after my first ascent. To our left, is a sheer rock drop-off 1000 vertical feet to the Minor Glacier. To the right, a steep snowfield ends in a cliff falling 500 feet to the Gooseneck glacier. We…
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The Longest Day

His Father Died At His Feet. 50 Years Later The Accident Still Haunts Him. The author lost his father in an accident at the crag nearly 50 years ago. He’s taken that long to be able to write about it. Featured photo: David Markusen (left) and Steve Markusen on the summit of the Grand Teton…
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Live Better Longer: Learn Something New

Featured Photo: Looking out over the Virgin River from the last rappel at the mouth of Behuenin Canyon, Zion National Park, Utah. Credit Max Markusen We walk on flat white sand, red rock walls to the left and right rise a thousand feet framing an impossibly blue sky with puffy white clouds. The air carries…
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Training with a Plan Part III: The Taper

Featured Photo: Max Markusen leading the first technical crux, Lady Mountain Route, Zion Utah May 2024 Carefully making our way across an exposed traverse above a sandstone cliff, we pause to marvel at the scenery and solitude. The shadows on the canyon wall slowly descended as the sun climbs. Far below the sound of the…
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Training with a Plan, Part One: A Disciplined Approach to Achieving Goals

Photo: Achieving goal on Spaceshot, Zion, Utah. Credit: Paul Gardner, 2000 Sitting at my computer, I am listening to the drumbeat of rain on the skylights and day-dreaming about adventure… The position is surreal: a vertical wall split by a single crack. There is no ledge. Called a hanging belay, I am connected to the…