Photo: An uncomfortable belay stance at the top of the first pitch, Ames Ice Hose, Telluride, CO Deliberate Training: Building a Base, Week Two There is nothing comfortable about ice climbing. To climb the Ames Ice hose, we left our warm beds at four in the morning, hiked the snow packed approach in the dark, […]
Photo: Laura Bergman image of the author ice climbing out of retirement, Cascade Falls, Minnesota, Feb 2018 “Success has to do with deliberate practice. Practice must be focused, determined, and in an environment where there is feedback.” – Malcolm Gladwell The air is Minnesota cold as Hunter Farrell and I make our way down the […]
Photo: Charlie Markusen leading “The Window Pitch” Grand Teton, WY My 21 year old son Charlie looked at the rock face above him and turned to me saying, “I can do this.” It was 3 pm and we were alone at the base of the Friction Pitch, the crux section of the upper Exum Ridge. […]
An insistent voice brought me out of the void and darkness. “What is your name? Where are you?” My eyes opened to see a chiseled face with furrowed brow. Pain stabbed my side, and my head, arms and legs were covered in blood. I spoke softly, giving my name and our location as the Grand. […]